“Three foot barrel on a 20 foot wave”

This epic little wave comes from Chris Dixon at Australia’s Surfing Life.

Chris reckons “the wave was the odd one out. None of the other waves broke as extreme as this one. But you still would get a wave here and there which doubled up and morphed on itself. There’s heaps of dark, deep water surrounding the break. It’s so dangerous because there are several rocks just out of frame completely sticking out of the water –  if you wipe out in the wrong place you’re in for a good pounding… and the hold downs are heavy!”